FROM THE THREAD TO THE FABRIC
Our dear friends of Dormeuil, have a secret in their origins, with exceptional properties, the Yorkshire water. This offers a unique advantage when it comes to the finishing of fabrics. All its fabrics combine traditional methods and innovative techniques for a smooth finish and an impeccable fall. So that when you touch it, you feel. Besides, one thing is essential in this time in which we live. A time when communication travels faster than interest in seeing what is behind a garment. And is that quality, today is the exception. Values today we have to transmit them and live according to them. Because although many do not look at that setback we are talking about, others are the first thing they seek.
OTRURA knows that only with the best fabrics can you create your pieces and can add our responsibility to that of our wonderful partners.
In the previous article, we made the journey made by raw materials, from fiber, hair, to yarn. Now we travel with our dear friends to discover what is behind the fabrics.
Bring a collection to life
The fabrics of each collection are created by Dominic Dormeuil and his design team, before making a prototype at the Dormeuil facilities in Yorkshire, England. The house of Dormeuil designs a new collection of fabrics twice a year. but I also work hand in hand with fashion houses, creating exclusive “pieces” and “designs” for each firm.
The deformation consists of unrolling the yarn cones in a warp beam ready to weave. The warp threads are wound to a uniform tension and parallel in a specific order, a process known as drawing.
The fabric is produced by interlacing warp threads (vertical) and weft threads (horizontal) at a specific frequency.
- Plein weave. The fabric is produced by interlacing warp threads (vertical) and weft threads (horizontal) at a specific frequency.
- Serge weave. This type of fabric is created by passing the weft thread under two warp threads and then by two more, compensating a thread for each selection to give the fabric its diagonal effect.
- Satin weave. Satin fabric is characterized by four or more weft threads that float on the warp thread or, conversely, four or more threads pass under it.
It is vital to know the characteristics of each fabric, in order to know in turn the behavior that the fabric will have on the pattern.
Left-handers carefully examine the fabric with a powerful magnifying device that allows all fabrics to be repaired by hand with a needle.
At the same time as the darning, all knots are removed to ensure a perfectly smooth surface for finishing.
This involves transforming the raw fabric that comes out of the loom into finished fabric that can be used to make clothes. Dormeuil uses more than 50 different finishing techniques, including high-pressure washing, stabilization treatments, vaporization and singeing.