From Fiber to Thread
Without the work of many people, without the effort and dedication of artisans, ranchers, collectors, sharecroppers and a long etcetera, none of us would dress.
Without the inheritance that is handed down from generation to generation, we would not be what we are today. This is the difference with other species. The ability to learn, transmit and remember. OTRURA we are nothing without our suppliers, partners in know-how. Heirs, who are in many cases sagas of entrepreneurs. One of them is the textile house Dormeuil, with whom we are working in our next sewing collection, both man and woman.
Dormeuil, founded in 1842, was born from the hands of Jules Dormeuil with the aim of importing English fabrics in the European market, through Paris, France. Since then the road has been incredible and on another occasion we will share this trip. But today we want to go directly to the essence of your fabrics, because wool is essential for OTRURA. And it is the core of Dormeuil’s experience.
The origin of their wool are in Greenland, South America, Europe, South Africa, Egypt, Mongolia, Australia, New Zealand, etc … In particular, today we are going to travel together a beautiful journey, the path that runs through the wool, from the fleece from the animal, to the Thread. With which we will later weave the fabrics, but that will also be another story.
After cutting or harvesting, the initial classification and cleaning are carried out by artisanal breeders in the place of origin. The next steps take place in England, in the hands of the best and most skilled weavers.
Artisans manually classify each fiber depending on its fineness, separating the fibers into a series of qualities.
Cleaning the fiber
The fleece is washed to remove impurities such as grease, dirt and straw.
Carding fiber (short fibers)
The wool fibers are separated, unraveled and ventilated to give the carding cord. That is the carding stage that fiber blends can be made.
The word “cardado” derives from carduus, the Latin name for thistle, a thorny plant that grows on the road. It is not unusual for the flock to rub against the thistles while they roam, leaving some strands of wool tied.
Combing fiber (long fibers)
The long fibers will combine to align the fibers in parallel. Then the shorter fibers are removed.
You get a continuous strand of clean fibers called “Top”.
Dyeing the «Top»
The strands are dyed in bulk before spinning. And they can be dyed in several ways:
- Superior dyeing: it consists of dyeing the fiber threads before weaving.
- Of the thread: it consists in dyeing the raw wool reels after spinning.
- By pieces: this is generally the least expensive technique. The natural color and then stained in an autoclave.
Spinning the fiber
The yarn consists of twisting the natural fibers to obtain a more durable continuous thread, transforming the natural wool into fine fibers, a soft and compact thread. This yarn can be:
- Twisted spinning (long fibers): fibers are combed during spinning to eliminate air spaces and more twisting is applied, creating a fine, soft and durable yarn. This method is mainly used for men’s suits.
- Wool spinning (short fibers): the fibers do not combine when they are spun, and a small twist is applied. This gives a soft and high thread. This method is mainly used for jackets, coats and knitwear.